Djupivogur and Papey Island, Iceland
Friday, 7/7/23
Latitude: 64.28° Longitude: -14.58°
It was like sailing into the deep misty mountains of Jurassic Park this morning as Seabourn Venture made its way to Djupivogur. On arrival, the coastline was shrouded in mist as some of us headed ashore for some wonderful hikes and to explore the famed rock museum. The clouds cleared throughout the morning, and the blue sky appeared in greeting. Several walks were offered, long and short, all with fantastic views of the wonderful surrounding nature. Birds were out in their droves, from the elegant Arctic Tern to the gorgeous Black-tailed Godwit, to the plentiful Common Eiders with cute little fluffy ducklings trailing behind them.
Independent adventurers could explore the small fishing village and visit its unique rock museum, home to many spectacular rock formations of every shape, size, and color. A short walk away, there were a few independent shops, including one filled with whale bones, baleen, and reindeer antler. Further down the road, one could visit the beautiful egg sculptures, each depicting the egg of one of 30 different bird species. Made of locally-sourced stone, these were quite spectacular.
After having lunch back onboard, Seabourn Venture sailed next to Papey Island. Papey is very exposed to the elements, and the wind and swell on arrival did not favor expedition operations. The planned Zodiac cruise, unfortunately, had to be cancelled. However, using Seabourn Venture's excellent GSS camera, we were able to have wonderful views of the island, its bird colonies, and the unique geological features of its cliffs. The images from the GSS camera were broadcast live in the Discovery Center, accompanied by live commentary from the Expedition Staff - Jon Sigurdsson, Kini Roesler and Tess Hudson - who animatedly explained the island's geology, history, bird-life, marine life and other wildlife. Guests learned a lot about the perfect little Atlantic Puffins, the cool Black-legged Kittiwakes and why seals occasionally lie in a banana shape while on land. All the while looking at the remarkable animals live on screen.
Later in the afternoon, we listened to an intriguing lecture about the 'Marine Mammals of Iceland' by Tess Hudson. In this, they learned how to disentangle humpback whales, how the killer whale got its name and why marine mammals are drawn to Icelandic waters. Later in the evening, the daily Recap and Briefing allowed everyone a glimpse into the exciting possibilities of the following day, and an evening conversation with Heidi, the astronaut, had us all thinking about space travel and beyond.
Background
Papey, Celtic for ‘Friar’s’ Island, is situated 3 miles off of the eastern coast of Iceland. Although the largest island in Eastern Iceland, it is only 0.77 sq mi in area. Its windswept, grassy slopes rise to 190 feet culminating in a rock formation called the Castle. Rocky sea cliffs surround much of the island, providing excellent habitat for nesting sea birds. Guillemots occupy Papey until mid-summer while Atlantic puffins abound until mid-September. Seals and eider ducks can be found here during breeding season.
Although there is evidence of early Norse settlement, the island takes its name from Irish monks known as ‘papar’ who presumably occupied the island. The medieval Icelandic ‘Book of Settlements’ mentions this as a place inhabited by these ‘Vestmen’ (men of the west).
Today, a lighthouse, a dwelling and a church are on the island. The small church, with its white picket fence and red roof is the oldest wooden church in Iceland, built in 1902.