Prins Christian Sund, Greenland
Wednesday, 7/10/23
Latitude: 60.11° Longitude: -43.37°
Wednesday, 7/10/23
Latitude: 60.11° Longitude: -43.37°
The morning dawned with low temperatures and light winds, a perfect recipe for sea fog in North Atlantic waters. But as Seabourn Venture made its way towards the eastern entrance of Prins Christian Sund, the first patches of blue sky could be spotted, promising better visibility when the sun had time to burn the fog away. And we were not disappointed. By 9:00 am, we could see a horizon and beyond, the first glimpse of the steep mountains of East Greenland, still covered in mist.
Seabourn Venture had reached the continental rise, a region where upwelling nutrient-rich waters provide excellent feeding grounds. The Expedition Team crewed all stations, and the outer decks were well-visited to spot wildlife. It wasn't long before sperm whales were sighted, logging (resting) at the water's surface. Sperm whales are the largest of the toothed whales and the largest living carnivore. Lying peacefully at the surface, they presented their stumpy triangular dorsal fins and massive heads. Every now and then, we could see their diagnostic shallow blow projecting forward and to the left. The Bridge officers skillfully maneuvered Seabourn Venture to allow guests a better view. After a while, the whales were ready for another dive, their broad, triangular flukes went up, and they dived down on the hunt for giant squid living in the deep waters off the Greenlandic coast. Sperm whales are known for their long, deep dives, each of up to one hour. We drew our attention towards new representatives of the avifauna, such as the Sooty Shearwaters and Great Shearwaters that were sitting on the water or flying around the ship.
Sailing towards Prins Christian Sund, Seabourn Venture encountered the first ice of the voyage. At first, there were small pieces of brash ice, but finally, greater sea ice floes. The sun had the upper hand over the fog and the clouds, and everyone was on deck to enjoy the view. Tracks on the ice floes and the remains of a seal clearly indicated the presence of the top predator in these parts, a polar bear. Still, even the keen eyes of our polar bear guards could not spot the king of the Arctic.
The ship steadily made its way towards the coast and reached the entry of Prins Christian Sund around noon. A huge iceberg in the vicinity was reason enough to change course for a while, and the Bridge officers brought Seabourn Venture close to it for a circumnavigation. Seeing such an iceberg from close up was a special treat and, though interfering with lunch, was a pleasure in itself. Seeing the towering peaks of the iceberg up close was incredible.
In the afternoon, Seabourn Venture stopped at Sermeq Kujalleq, the southernmost outlet glacier connected to Greenland's ice sheet. A Zodiac cruise around the ice in this stunning fjord was the undisputed highlight of the day. Towering cliffs of granite, crisscrossed by magmatic intrusions more than 1 billion years in age, tell a geological story from when life on Earth was nothing more than a bacterial film on bare rocks. Contemporary wildlife was present in the form of a bearded seal and legions of mosquitoes. But these bloodsucking little insects could not spoil the fun of cruising through a stunning landscape sculptured by glaciers and mesmerizing everybody with its natural beauty. A little sip of champagne in the afternoon sun on the Zodiac left nothing more to be desired, and by 7:00 pm, Seabourn Venture set sail towards its next destination on the west coast of Greenland.
During dinner, all venues resonated with lively conversations about the great experience of the day. All the while, Seabourn Venture made its way through the Sund beside dramatic mountain ranges and picturesque scenes of natural beauty. Many of us spent long hours on the outer decks or in the Constellation Lounge, enjoying the views.